Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
