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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.